We begin with an overview of when, where, and who for the background for our Princess'es clothing. Later posts will be made about the individual elements of the wardrobe, i.e. gown, sleeve, overgown, headdress, fabric choices, and headdress. Our Princess took her inspiration for her persona from Leonardo da Vinci's portrait of the Lady with the Ermine which was made at the court of Milan depicting Cecilia Gallerani, who was the mistress of Duke Ludovico Sforza. French Engineer Pascal Cotta developed a light refraction technique that allows for the removal of the ermine to reveal the dress underneath the animal, which was added to the portrait. (For more information about this scientific advancement, please see the link below.) When we view Cecilia's outfit without the ermine, we see a typical gown of the period with velvet banding around the neckline and gold embroidery for embellishment. The two part sleeves are connected with black ribbon ties. Through the ties in the dress we can see a white chemise. About her neck she wears a necklace of some type of black beads. Her hair is dressed in a style characteristic of the period as well. Hair parted in the middle and drawn back into a long tube referred to as a coazzone with cap on the back of the head. The cap is held in place with a ribbon tied around the head. Over this headdress is a tightly bound veil so shear as to be nearly translucent. At her right shoulder and loosely draped is a blue overgown lined in gold. Below are other portraits painted at the same time in Milan. The wardrobe of the time period also included an overdress cut in a style to suit the wearer.
Here is another look at an overgown detail. The fabric a rich brocade revealing the gown underneath. More to come. Please note: All portraits or portions displayed on this blog are public domain images and no copyright infringement is intended.
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Baroness Franca DonatoVandy Pacetti-Tune is a milliner, costumer, illuminator and calligrapher, and researcher who is interested in all that is the Italian Renaissance. A true Florida Native originally from Saint Augustine, she now calls Auburndale, Florida her home. Vandy is known in the Society for Creative Anachronism as Baronessa Franca Donato and resides in the Shire of the Ruins in the Kingdom of Trimaris. Archives
August 2015
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